Open Sunday - Thursday: 9:30AM till 12AM. Friday: 8:30AM till two hours before Shabbat.
Closed Shabbat. Motzei Shabbat open one hour after Shabbat till 2AM.

Any Jerusalemite or visitor to Emek Refaim is doubtless aware that Norman's landmark steakhouse closed down, literally overnight, several months ago.  There was no question that another restaurant would take its place; the only question was - what kind would it be.  Renovations began quickly, hidden behind a high wall.  After a month, a big billboard went up a few blocks down the street, saying only "Luchana.  Italian House."  Few of us had any inkling what this referred to and what was in store.

Then, right after Shavuot, a sign came up on site - "Luciana.  Italian Restaurant."  Different spelling, same place. Luciana ('light' in Italian, pronounced "Luchana," hence the alternate spelling for clueless Israelis) is restaurant row's new Italian dairy restaurant that is, in a word, incredible.

Two friends were taking me to lunch and I opted to try the 'new kid on the block.'  Although I started out rather skeptical - great, just what we need, another dairy "Italian" eatery - I came away a fan.  While Luciana is still in its running-in stage and many additions and changes are in store, it is already packed all day and quickly gaining a loyal following.

Signs of the previous tenant are practically nowhere to be seen.  The three owners - Shlomi, Alon and chef Aviram - who also own and manage the popular Joy Grill & Beer meat restaurant across the street - spared no expense in creating a unique environment.  We felt we had just entered an Italian village eatery replete with wood tables and chairs, wrought iron railings, antique light fixtures and tile floors with terracotta-colored borders framing Arabic-style colored geometric designs.  Two outdoor decks and one large glass-enclosed air-conditioned room, all spanking new, create an atmosphere that leaves Emek Refaim, and indeed the hustle and bustle of Israeli society, far behind.

The menu is large.  Literally.  A large two-sided printed menu lists a wide range of selections, including many items I'd never seen in a Jerusalem restaurant before., and prices are quite reasonable.  A business lunch is not yet available, although it will be offered once the main menu is finalized.

After we ordered, a plate of warm, freshly-baked bread slices with a wonderfully crunchy crust was brought to the table, served with a very spicy hot pepper paste; I had to ask for butter, but it came quickly.

For starters we shared the Fish Seviche on a bed of quinoa and citrus marinade (36 NIS) and Eggplant rollups filled with feta cheese and herbs (28).  The seviche, curred fish - in this case, denis and red drum (mussar in Hebrew) - marinated in a lemon marinade was a bit bland and 'squishy' for me, although my companions enjoyed it.  The quinoa was crunchy and not overdone.  The eggplant rolls - 5 on a lovely oval plate - were crisp and tightly rolled, sitting in a shallow bed of light tomato sauce.  The Feta cheese, a bit over-salty for my taste, was studded with chopped nuts, giving the dish a variety of sensations when eaten (although, as a potential allergy-alert, the nuts should have been clearly indicated in the dish's description on the menu).

All food is served on lovely white dishes which allow the variety of colors in the foods to take center stage.  We selected three entrees from different sections of the menu.  I went with the Luciana (house) salad - pasta with grilled vegetables in balsamic marinade with baby mozzarella and grilled salmon with basil (55) - and my friends ordered Pepperdella (pasta wider and longer than fettuccine) with artichoke hearts and spinach leaves in a lemon grass cream (43) and Risotto with asparagus with (snow) peas and basil (42), one of three distinct risottos offered.  These were a perfect combination, and three of the most delicious and unique dishes I have ever tasted. 

The Luciana salad is now officially my all-time favorite – ever (except, coincidentally – or not – Joy's house salad).  I always enjoy salads, with their different elements, flavors and tastes; it's interesting to see which combinations will be most successful.  This is a definite winner.  The fresh greens are mixed with a variety of cold grilled vegetables, including lots of sweet potatoes, my personal favorite, and mixed with small balls of mozzarella cheese.  The dressing was light and subtle.  Julio pasta -small spirals with a curly 'ribbon' at the end of each piece were mixed in.  Lying atop the huge mound of salad were three very generous pieces of freshly-grilled, warm fresh salmon steaks, my favorite.  I couldn't have asked for a better combination.  The only thing missing in this marvelous taste sensation was perhaps a few lightly toasted walnuts mixed in that would have given the salad a bit of crunch.   Otherwise, no complaints; simply divine.

We enjoyed the perfectly-made risotto with several pieces of fresh asparagus and blended with snow peas and basil.  The risotto, creamy and perfectly cooked, was topped with parmesan cheese which was fine, although I would have preferred getting it in a dish on the side and having the option to add it on my own.  We didn't realize at first that the pasta portion was actually quite generous, since it was served in a deceptively-deep oval dish.  Although we hated leaving even a bite of this heavenly food on our plates, we were simply physically unable to finish all three dishes, especially since we wanted to leave some room for dessert.

The dessert menu has not yet been printed but we were told the selection by heart – a nice variety of freshly-baked pies and tarts, as well as a selection of sorbets.  I surprised myself by not choosing the tricolade since it's virtually impossible for me to pass up a chocolate dessert, but I know it would have been too rich and filling and I could barely manage a taste of the delicious warm apple pie with vanilla ice cream we chose instead. 

Luciana's other chef, Omri, who I was told was “stolen” from his former Tel Aviv workplace, says that while most restaurants invest virtually all their money on the décor and only 'shekels' on the kitchen, he only agreed to join the new enterprise because the management realizes how important the food preparation facilities are; in fact, there are two kitchens – one where the foods are cooked and the other, a 'prep' kitchen, where the final dishes are assembled and served.  This alone indicates a unique and very serious attention to the highest-quality of foods and service.  Omri's goal is to concentrate on fresh, organic produce and creations, eventually creating a separate healthy, low-calorie menu.  His whole-wheat fettuccine dish is already the first item sold out each day.  With the usual restaurant “Israeli” breakfasts deceptively high in calories, several healthy, low-calorie but generous versions will also soon be on tap.

Construction and renovations continue both below and above the main space: a separate pastry-conditory kitchen being built downstairs that will enable the staff to bake their own breads and pastries on site (including tiramisu and other native Italian desserts), and the upstairs area, once completed, will be a meeting and events room available for private business functions and smachot for 35-40 people.

Although open less than a month, it is already clear that Luciana has introduced a uniquely high quality of food preparation, service and variety of dishes to Emek Refaim.  The changes in store will no doubt only serve to increase its popularity and culinary excitement.  I for one plan to check out future changes as frequently as I can allow myself to.  This one's a keeper that will no doubt bring even more 'luciana' to the busy and always-exciting Emek Refaim.